I didn’t know that I didn’t know the geography of the East Coast. I’ve driven 95 from Maine to Florida and it all seemed pretty straightforward, just one exit after another.

Sailing the Betty Ann has given me the geography lesson I lacked. I now understand where Queens, Brooklyn and the Bronx are in relation to Manhattan. Having ridden the powerful Gulf Stream up from Florida, I can appreciate why countless ships sank off Cape Hatteras. And who knew that North Carolina had so many wide rivers? (On one trip, we spent hours debating, and betting on, whether the Neuse River is the widest river in the United States — only to discover that our Googled authorities were inconsistent.)

I knew that Baltimore has a harbor and assumed it was on the Atlantic Ocean. Wrong. (It’s way up the Chesapeake, in case anyone else was in the dark with me.) And I now know the C&D Canal connects the Chesapeake and Delaware Bays. I appreciate the deep harbors of Penobscot Bay more than ever, having sailed the western coast of Florida with barely a port deep enough for Betty Ann’s 5’3″ draft.

In the last decade, we have sailed “outside” from Florida to Rhode Island without landfall (or indeed sight of land), we’ve sailed up the Intracoastal Waterway through North Carolina, Virginia, Maryland, and Delaware, we’ve gone into New York City Harbor at night (a bit terrifying), and we have hopped from harbor to harbor in Maine.

Below is a chart reflecting nearly 50 ports that Betty Ann has visited, many frequently. If you click here, you will be taken to an interactive map where you can see the names and locations of the ports.

I didn’t know that I needed a geography lesson, but I’m sure glad I got it. The East Coast is a lot more interesting and beautiful than I ever realized. And no child in geography class had a better teacher than Betty Ann.

Every ship should have a log to track its voyages. Archie has a bright shiny red log book in which he diligently recorded the passengers and ports for his first few trips. But in the years since, his use of the log has been spotty. Whole years go by with no entries.

This post is an attempt to reconstruct the log, focusing on the trips and the crews. On a few recent trips, Archie, Bill, Alison, Rick and me, all frequent crew for the Point Judith-Bradenton run, did our best to fill in the gaps in the log book. On our most recent trip in Fall 2013, we went through the log book page by page and reconstructed many of the trips.

I am hoping that readers (that means you!) will comment on this post and try to fill in the gaps and correct the mistakes. As you do so, I will update the post.

Because this a public blog, I use only first names and (when helpful for clarity) initials of last names. I sometimes try to add a descriptive phrase, such as Rick (Archie’s son-in-law). Most of the crew are Archie’s family, Archie’s good friends from South County, Archie’s gym buddies, or Mike’s colleagues from his Boston workplace.

February 2004:  Bradenton, FL to Bradenton, FL

Archie and Tom S.

• Bradenton-Long Boat Key-Key West-Marathon-Key Largo:  Archie and his friends Denny and Kenny P. (for the day in Key West, the log reads, “Lay day:  Rest, sloppy Joe’s, Conch Train, Pepe’s for lunch, marine store, Margaritaville, Hog’s Breath (motto: “Better than No Breath”), Mallory’s Dock sunset, rooftop, back to boat”)
• Key Largo-Miami-Ft. Lauderdale-Ponce de Leon Inlet-Beaufort, NC:  Archie, Laura (daughter-in-law), Kelly (granddaughter), Bill W-R (wannabe son), and Mike (actual son)
• Beaufort-Oriental-Belhaven-Coinjock-Annapolis:  Archie, Susan, Rick, and Justin (Rick’s father)
• Annapolis-New York City-Port Jefferson-Old Saybrook-Point Judith:  Archie, John (son), Ron (friend), Dale (Ron’s son), and David (Ron’s nephew)

June 2004:  Newport with Susan, Rick, Jamey and Debi R.

July 2004:  Nantucket, Oak Bluffs, Hadley’s Harbor and Cuttyhunk with Archie, Susan and Rick, Archie A. (their son), Stan (other son), Sydney (their daughter), friends Margie and Church, Caite (Archie’s granddaughter), Kelly (also granddaughter), Mike and Tom (Mike’s partner)

Margie, Church and Archie

July 2004:  Block Island day trip with John, Renee (daughter-in-law), Renee’s parents Ray and Carol, and John/Renee’s daughter Taylor and son Shane, and Renee’s brother Denis

Fall 2004:  Point Judith to Bradenton

• Point Judith to Old Saybrook, CT:  Archie and John
• Old Saybrook-Guilford-Milford-New York City:  Archie, Mary M. (colleague), Emily (Mary’s daughter) and Matt (Emily’s boyfriend)
• New York City-Chesapeake City-Annapolis-Deltaville-Portsmouth-Coinjock, NC:  Archie and Bob G. (friend of 70+ years)
• Coinjock-Englehart-Beaufort-Fort Lauderdale:  Archie, Mike, Bill W-R, and Rick (friend from Mike’s workplace)
• Fort Lauderdale-Key West-Bradenton:  Archie and Denny

Spring 2005:  Bradenton to Point Judith

• Bradenton-Key West-Fort Lauderdale:  Archie, John, David, and Denny
• Fort Lauderdale to Ponce de Leon Inlet, FL:  Archie and Denny
• Ponce de Leon Inlet to Point Judith (via Gulf Stream):  Archie, Bill W-R, Rick, Mike and Brian (friend from Mike’s workplace)

Summer 2005:  Martha’s Vineyard with Steve, Laura, Caite, Kelly and Tara

July 2005:  Watch Hill, Old Saybrook, and Mystic with Susan, Rick, Archie A., Stan, Sydney, Tom and Mike

July 2005:  Woods Hole (for the Woods Hole Film Festival) with Susan and Rick

September 2005:  Jamestown, East Greenwich, and Newport with Susan, Rick, Stan and Sydney

Fall 2005:  Point Judith to Bradenton

• Point Judith-Chesapeake, VA-Coinjock-Dowry Creek-Beaufort-Charleston:  Archie, Jim G. (cousin of Archie’s wife Betty Ann), and Archie’s friends George M., Nick A., and Jim L.
• Charleston to Miami:  Archie, Bill and John
• Miami-Key West-Bradenton:  Archie and Denny

Spring 2006:  Bradenton to Point Judith

Rick and Susan

• Bradenton to Fort Lauderdale:  Archie, Denny and George M.
• Fort Lauderdale to Deltaville, VA:  Archie, Bill W-R, Rick and Mike
• Deltaville to Cape May:  Archie and Jim L.
• Cape May to Point Judith:  Archie, Bob G., and Jim L.

Fall 2006:  Point Judith to Bradenton

• Point Judith to Charleston:  Archie, Jimmy G., Jim L., Bob G.
• Charleston to Miami:  Archie, Bill W-R, Alison (childhood friend of Bill W-R), Rick and Mike
• Miami to Marathon:  Archie, Bill W-R, Alison, and Archie’s friends George, Jerry K. and Jim B.
• Marathon to Bradenton:  Archie, George, Jerry K. and Jim B.

Spring 2007:  Bradenton to Point Judith

• Bradenton to Fort Lauderdale: Archie, Denny, David and John
• Fort Lauderdale to Southport, NC:  Archie, Bob G., and Jim G.
• Southport-round Cape Hatteras-Deltaville-Solomon’s Island-St. Michael’s-Annapolis:  Archie, Mike, Rick, Alison and Bill W-R
• Annapolis to Point Judith:  Archie, George, Jerry K., Jim B. and Andrew B. (Jim’s son)

July 2007:  Block Island and Newport with Archie, Mike, Tom and Tom’s mom Wootsie

Renee and John, Penobscot Bay

August 2007:  Penobscot Bay, Maine with whole family

Fall 2007:  Point Judith to Bradenton 

• Point Judith to Charleston:  ?
• Charleston to Miami:  Archie, Alison, Bill and Rick
• Miami to Bradenton:  ?

Spring 2008:  Bradenton to Point Judith

• Bradenton-Key West-Amelia Island, FL:  Archie, Rick, Alison, Bill and Mike
• Amelia Island to Annapolis:  Archie, Larry L. (friend and chef extraordinaire), and Bob G.
• Annapolis to Point Judith:  Archie, Larry and Jim B.

July 2008:  Block Island with Mike and friend Don van D.

Fall 2008:  Point Judith to Long Boat Key

• Point Judith to Coinjock:  Archie, Larry, Jim B., George, and Pete A.
• Coinjock to Charleston:  Archie, Larry, Rick, Alison and Bill
• Charleston to Long Boat Key:  Archie, Jim L., Larry, and Rick

Spring 2009:  Long Boat Key to Point Judith

Larry

• Long Boat Key-Key West-Charleston-New Bern, NC:  Archie, Jim B., Andrew B., Jim’s nephew Eric T., and Larry
• New Bern-Oriental-Hump Point-Chesapeake-New York City-Old Saybrook-Point Judith:  Archie, Bill, Alison and Mike

July 2009:  Oak Bluff with Susan, Sydney, Stan and Mike

August 2009:  Penobscot Bay, Maine trip

• Point Judith-Cuttyhunk-Northeast Harbor-Buck’s Harbor-Rockland:  Archie, Denny, Kenny and Larry
• Rockland-Pulpit’s Harbor-Buck’s Harbor-Rockland:  Archie, Tom, Mike and Susan N.
• Rockland-Pulpit’s Harbor-Buck’s Harbor-Rockland:  Archie, Steve, Laura, and friends Ann and John
• Rockland-Camden:  Archie, Susan, Rick, Stan, and Sydney
• Camden-Pulpit’s Harbor-Rockland:  Archie
• Rockland-Point Judith:  Archie, Mike, Bill W-R, and Alison

Dinner at Dennett’s Wharf, Castine, Maine

Fall 2009:  Point Judith to Bradenton

• Point Judith to Charleston:  Archie, Jim L., Larry, Jim B., Andrew B., and Pete A.
• Charleston to Miami:  Archie, Bill, Rick, and Alison
• Miami to Bradenton:  Archie, Rick and Scott B. (PJC manager)

Spring 2010:  Bradenton to Point Judith

• Bradenton-Key West-Ft. Lauderdale-Charleston:  Archie, Jim B. (broke ankle, left in Ft. Lauderdale), Andrew B., Larry
• Charleston to Solomon’s Island, MD:  Archie, Jim G., Jim G.’s friend Grant, Grant’s wife, and Jim L.
• Solomon’s Island to Point Judith:  Archie, Bill, Alison, Rick and Mike

August 2010:  Trip to Boston and Penobscot Bay, Maine

• Point Judith to Charlestown, MA:  Archie, Denny and Bob G.
• Charlestown-Northeast Harbor-Buck’s Harbor-Rockland:  Archie, Mike and Tom
• Rockland to Portland:  Archie (racing hurricane)
• Portland to Point Judith:  Archie, Steve and Laura

Fall 2010:  Point Judith to Bradenton

Shane and Taylor

• Point Judith-Chesapeake-Oriental-Charleston:  Archie, Jim B., Andrew B., Larry, and Pete
• Charleston-Ft. Pierce-Miami:  Archie, Bill, Alison, Rick and Mike
• Miami to Bradenton:  Archie, Rick and Mike

Spring 2011:  Bradenton to Point Judith

• Bradenton-Key West-Miami-Fort Lauderdale:  Archie, Bob G., Peter (Bob G.’s son), and Larry
• Fort Lauderdale to Charleston:  Archie, Jim G., Stephanie (Jim’s daughter), Jim L., Larry
• Charleston to Beaufort:  Archie, Jim G., Stephanie and Larry
• Beaufort to Oriental:  Archie
• Oriental-archored off Stumpy Point-Coinjock-Hampton-Deltaville-Solomon’s Island- Annapolis:  Archie, Bill W-R, Rick, Alison, and Mike
• Annapolis-New York City-Westborough-Block Island-Point Judith:  Archie, Jim B., Andrew B., and Andrew’s friend Kelly

Summer 2011:  Newport, Cuttyhunk, New Bedford, Edgartown

Labor Day 2011:  Newport

Rick, Bill and Alison

Fall 2011:  Point Judith to Bradenton

• Point Judith-Portsmouth, VA-Chesapeake-Coinjock-Belhaven:  
  Archie, Jim B., Pete A.
• Belhaven-Oriental-Southport-Charleston:  Archie and Jim G.
• Charleston-??:  Archie, Alison, Rick, Bill and Mike

Spring 2012:  Bradenton to Point Judith 

• Bradenton-Key West-Charleston:  Archie, Larry, Jim B., Archie’s friends Glen R. and Ray X.
  
• Charleston-Annapolis:  Archie, Jim G. and Stephanie
• Annapolis to Point Judith:  Archie, Bill, Alison, Mike and Rob M. (friend from Mike’s workplace)

August 2012:  85th Birthday Celebration on Martha’s Vineyard/Nantucket/Newport with whole family

Fall 2012:  Point Judith to Bradenton

• Point Judith to Charleston:  Archie, Ned C. (old sailing friend), Jim B., Bill
• Charleston to Miami:  Archie, Bill, Alison, Rob and Mike
• Miami to Bradenton:  Archie, Jim and Terry

Spring 2013:  Bradenton to Point Judith

Jim B.

• Bradenton to Charleston:  Archie, Larry, Jim B., and Jim’s friend Joe H.
  
• Charleston to Point Judith:  Archie, Bill, Alison and Rob (3 days, 20 hours)

August 2013:  Penobscot Bay, Maine

• Point Judith to Rockland, ME:  Archie, Denny and friend Dick H.
  
• Around Penobscot Bay:  Archie, John, Renee, Taylor, Shane, Mike and Tom
• Rockland to Boothbay Harbor:  Archie and Mike
• Boothbay Harbor to Portsmouth, NH:  Archie, Susan and Rick
• Portsmouth to Point Judith:  Archie, Caite and Richard

Fall 2013:  Point Judith to Bradenton

• Point Judith-Charleston:  Archie, Jim B., Joe, Ray and Larry
• Charleston to Miami:  Archie, Jim G., Terry and Ray
• Miami-Key West-Bradenton:  Archie, Bill, Rob, Alison and Mike

Betty Ann’s maiden voyage, from Bradenton, Florida to Point Judith, Rhode Island in the Spring of 2004, was one of her more difficult trips. Unfortunately, it was also the trip that we hoped to make a sailor out of one of Archie’s granddaughters.

As far as I know, the first leg of the trip went smoothly, with Archie and his friends Denny and Ken sailing overnight along Florida’s western coast and making landfall in Key West. It’s probably safe to say that they had a very good time in Key West. It’s kind of hard not to do so. This was probably the trip that Archie discovered Blue Heaven, his never-miss restaurant in Key West, where you eat under the stars and the pecking chickens mingle with the patrons.

Archie was joined by his second crew in Key Largo. The crew included:

• Archie’s daughter-in-law Laura, who has sailing deep in her bones from a childhood of sailing;
• my friend Bill, who has lived his whole life in the sailing town Marblehead, ran a launch for years, and sailed his own sailboat north from Florida;
• Kelly, Laura’s 14-year-old daughter and Archie’s granddaughter; and
• me (Mike), who had crewed on Bill’s boat on that sail up from Florida, so had some sense of what to expect.

Out of Archie’s seven grandchildren, Kelly was our great hope for a sailor in the next generation. While the other grandkids have lots of interests — running, singing, surfing — sailing doesn’t hold much appeal for them. At age 14, Kelly was a highly competitive downhill skier with a daredevil attitude. She seemed the type who might love the challenge of sailing hundreds of miles offshore in the Gulf Stream.

Unfortunately, our hopes of making a sailor out of her ran smack into a cold north wind. The Gulf Stream flows like a river in the ocean, except it has no banks and moves far more water than all the rivers on earth combined. In good conditions, sailing north in the stream is a pleasure:  the air feels velvety warm, the current adds 2 to 3 knots to your speed, flying fish whiz through the air, and dolphins play in your bow waves. But the Gulf Stream in a stiff north wind is another story. A north wind blowing over a north flowing stream creates a short, choppy and (most fatally) disorganized sea.

Within hours of leaving Key Largo, we were slogging head on into the wind through a very unsteady chop. The sky was grey, the wind chilly, and the motion most unpleasant. Before long, Kelly was sick and miserable. By the time we were off Miami, most of us had followed suit. One night far out in the Gulf of Florida, off Georgia, we were hit suddenly and hard by a fast-moving squall with 60 mph winds. Both Laura and Kelly were thrown from their berths against their cabin walls. This was not the salubrious Florida vacation any of us envisioned.

Despite the cold wind and stiff chop, we had some good times on the voyage — particularly when we were sailing into the ports Fort Lauderdale, Ponce Inlet and Beaufort, North Carolina! Even Kelly found some joy in re-reading all of the then-published Harry Potter books.

Happy and perhaps a bit relieved, we left Archie in Beaufort, where he was joined by his next crew. Bill enjoyed the trip enough that he has never missed sailing at least one leg of Archie’s north-and-south trips in the many years since. Kelly, on the other hand, has been busy with many other adventures — none of which involve a boat and a sail. In retrospect, maybe an offshore trip from Florida to North Carolina was not the right “starter trip” to make a sailor.

Then again, if the sun had shone, the wind had been a gentle and steady southwesterly, and the dolphins had been particularly playful, we might have well hooked her on sailing. Just maybe, instead of studying hard as a first year student at NYU Law School, Kelly might be bumming around the Caribbean, crewing on boats, listening to Jimmy Buffet and Jack Johnson, and drinking frozen Margaritas. Now that would make a grandfather proud.